Lighting (part 2: fashion)

PRINTING COMPOSITIONS

This is the contact sheet which contains all nine images that I made

final prints of. All pictures were taken outside the photography area next to the canal and highway. There is not filter used in the contact sheet or any of the prints and test strips. The contact sheet's aperture is 5.6, and the time is 5 seconds.

This is my first accessory image. The accessory the image is focusing on is the watch on the subject's wrist. If I would've taken this picture again I would've zoomed in more on the

watch to make it stand out more. The final print's aperture is 4, and the time is 2 seconds. The test strip's aperture is 4, and the time is 2-4-6 seconds.

This is my second accessory image. I think that the final print wasn't put into the water long enough, as you can see by the brown marks running down it. The accessory in the image is the set of earphones. The aperture is 5.6, and the time is 6 seconds. The test strip's aperture is 5.6, and the time is 3-4-9 seconds.

This is my third accessory image. The accessories in the image are the bracelets, however the original plan was to focus on the belt. The belt does not stand out much, however the bracelets stand out quite a lot, so those are the main objects instead. The final print's aperture is 5.6 and the time is 6 seconds. The test strip's aperture is 5.6 and the time is 4-6-9 seconds.

This is my first clothes image. This picture had a great use of sunlight, since it used a bit of the "backlight" effect, which is when the sun shines behind the subject. It gave a little of the 'halo effect' which can be seen by the light shining around the subject's hair. The final print's aperture is 5.6 and the time is 4 seconds. The test strip's aperture is 5.6 and the time is 6-8-10 seconds.

is my second clothes image. I like how theres is a contrast between the first and second subject's clothing, one being light and the other dark. Black top on one subject, and white top on the other subject. The final print's aperture is 5.6 and the time is 6 seconds. The test strip's aperture is 5.6 and the time is 4-6-8 seconds.

This is my third clothes image. There are three subjects is this picture. This creates a pattern among the clothes images I have. One subject for one, two for the second, and three for the third. The final print's aperture is 5.6 and the time is 4-8 seconds (burning was used- 4 seconds on the right side of the image and 8 seconds on the left side). The test strip's aperture is 5.6 and the time is 3-6-9 seconds.

This is my first shoes image. Just like the clothes section of my project, the number of subjects varies throughout the images. This first one has three subjects, while the second and third one have one subject only. The shoes in this image have great detail (they have more on the actual prints than the scanned images), which really makes the shoes stand out. The final print's aperture is 4 and the time is 5 seconds. The test strip's aperture is 4 and the time is 5-10-15 seconds.

This is my second shoes image. The contrast between the first and second shoe changes, as one is in the shadow and the other one is illuminated by the sunlight. The final print's aperture is 4 and the time is 2 seconds. The test strip's aperture is 4 and the time is 2-4-6 seconds.

This is my third shoe image. This picture is great by the way the subject is crouching instead of just standing up like in other pictures. The shoes stand out by the contrast the white part of the shoe has with the jeans, ground, and shirt. The final print's aperture is 4 and the time is 5 seconds. The test print does exist, however it was lost.

DIARY ENTRY

My experience with this project in the dark room has been extremely good. The speed of the work was fast and efficient, which is a great improvement to previous projects which took me much more time to do. The shooting of the pictures went well as well, as all my pictures came out well. The only bad thing was that one of my negatives was lost shortly after developing them, however it wasn't much of a problem.
Previous projects have required less final prints than this one. However it took me less time to do 9 final prints for this project than half the time it took me to do 4 or 6 prints for previous projects. The time was short to finish these 9 prints, which caused pressure to arise in order to do a good job. This experience has served to teach me to work more efficiently and faster.

THEORY NOTES

Shooting in Sunlight- Pictures tend to come out very well in sunlight, as it is an excellent light source to use. But pictures do not always come out well, since there are some situations where the sunlight is too bright, the shadow-light contrast is too high, etc.

• Try to avoid midday or very bright sunlight. The lens is pretty much blinded when faced with extremely bright sunlight, and the image will come out excessively light.
• The sunlight that is considered the best to use for photography is late-day sunlight. There are different types of shots you can take with late-day sunlight that have great effects on images. There is the High three-quarter light where the sun shines at a 45 degree angle over your shoulders and onto the subject. This type of shot looks good for almost any type of subject. A second type of shot is the Sidelight where the sunlight comes onto the subject from either their left or right side. This helps to show more detail in the image, which is great for portrait, building, landscape, and still life pictures. A third type of shot is Frontlight where the sunlight is shining over the subject at a very low angle, which gives off hard, falt light. It is great for getting reflections on water. The last type of shot you can do with late-sunlight that I'll mention, probably one of the greatest types of shot, is the Backlight. This is when the sun shines behind the subject at a low angle. The subject acts a shield for the lens against the sun, and a sort of 'halo effect' takes place.

Shooting in Low Light- When shooting in low light, one of the recommended setting for a camera is an open aperture (lower aperture number), which makes the lens absorb more light. Another good idea is to raise the ISO, as it heightens the sensitivity to light. If you do increase the ISO, you have to be careful to keep a steady hand and not move the camera at all. When the ISO is increased, the sensitivity to movement is also increased, and blurred pictures can come out if the camera shakes while taking the pictures. A tripod is the best help for keeping the camera stable in that situation. Something else to consider while taking photos in low light is to increase the shutter speed, which keeps the shutter open longer to allow more light to come in.

IMAGE BANK

Tony Howell is one of the most famous landscape photographers in England. His images have been used by the BBC, National Geographic, Unicef, and many other known organizations. They have also shown up on countless postcards, calendars, magazines, posters, catalogues, brochures, etc. His landscape images are relevant to my lighting project when sunlight is involved, which is the case for many of his photos.

This is a beach landscape picture taken by Howell using the "Sidelight" type of shot, where the sun comes in from a side to show more detail on the subject.

Ian S. Byrne is a nature and wildlife photographer from the UK. He has won awards for his great photographic skills, including a three star nature exhibition award handed to him by the Photographic Society of America. His photos have been exhibited across the UK, Europe, Australia, and the USA. He keeps on expanding his gallery while teaching others wildlife and nature photography. These types of photography have a lot to do with sunlight since it is used to gain detail of the plants and animals in the images.

This is a wildlife picture taken by Byrne. It uses the sunlight to produce reflections in the water.

James Nader is a UK-based fashion photographer. He has a very high understanding of photography and how to achieve certain effects, and has a great technique. He started his career with still life and commercial photography. Shortly after, digital technology rose up and became dominant, so Nader created his own photograph-screensaver business. It became successful, but Nader lost interest and found a new passion: fashion photography. His image are very clean, as he is very experienced in the digital world and uses Photoshop extremely well. Fashion is the focus of our project, so Nader's work is very relevant to the project.

This is an image taken by Nader. It's focus is the bag, as it really stands out by the way the model is holding it. This image would fit under the accessory category in my project.